Lincoln is a historic city and a wonderful place to visit. Perfect for just a day trip if you live fairly locally, with plenty of attractions and things to keep you busy all day long. It was a brisk February morning when I decided to go with a very good friend of mine, and let me tell you – it is definitely worth it!
Lincoln Castle
Lincoln Castle is steeped in rich history. On the drive to find a place to park the car, its walls loomed upon us in the mid-morning sun, inviting us in.
Built by William the Conqueror in 1068, Lincoln Castle has dominated the picturesque skyline for centuries. It was constructed in order to quell the rebels of the north and show them the power and influence he possessed. The castle itself is built upon the original walls that the Romans left behind during their conquest of Britain.
Magna Carta
Lincoln Castle is also one of the only places in the world where you can see surviving copies of the 1215 Magna Carta and the 1217 Charter of the Forest. Magna Carta translates to ‘The Great Charter’, and while being an extremely old and widely known document, it is also considered as the beginning of a democratic England.
Magna Carta was a royal charter of rights that was agreed upon by King John of England, who was often regarded as a tyrant, that declared the sovereign be subject to the rules of common law while also documenting the freedoms and liberties of the people of the realm. Twenty-five barons agreed to uphold the charter and were given rights to “assail and seek redress” upon the monarch if ever need be.
The documents are shown together in the David P J Ross Magna Carta vault at the castle. Unfortunately, the Magna Carta had been put to rest in order to maintain its preservation, but we did get to see The Forest Charter – in a dark, subterranean room enclosed in a glass case, and a true joy to observe. Photography is prohibited in the vault, so I can’t attach any photos; you’ll just have to go and see for yourself!
Victorian Prison
Lincoln Castle is also home to a Victorian prison. It was built in 1778 and used as a debtor’s prison up until around 1878, where it was then used to hold both male and female prisoners. People here were basically kept in solitary confinement for the duration of their stay, supposedly for the purpose of reflection, repentance, and reformation.
There are three floors of the prison, including a male and female wing and a chapel. The prison holds many memories, with museum cases and interactive tables showing you the history of justice in Victorian England. Another interesting fact about the castle is that it was originally built and founded upon a seat of justice, and to this day the Crown Court still operates within its walls.
Lincoln Cathedral
Lincoln Cathedral is a true sight to behold, perhaps one of the most visually stunning pieces of architecture in Britain. It can be seen for miles around due to its high walls and towering spires, and it is considered one of Europe’s finest Gothic buildings. If you have a passion for history as well as architecture, this one is definitely not to be missed.
Early history
Not so long after William the Conqueror had commissioned the construction of Lincoln Castle in 1068, he ordered Remigius de Fecamp to begin work on Lincoln Cathedral in 1072, which is when the first foundations were laid. Fecamp is known as the first Bishop of Lincoln, and the cathedral was consecrated in 1092, shortly after his death.
The cathedral wasn’t originally built in the Gothic style, but after fires and earthquakes damaged some of the architecture, some parts of it soon had to be rebuilt, which is when the Gothic art style was used. The central spire was raised in 1311, over one-hundred years since it was first commissioned, making it the tallest known building in the world. However, this wasn’t a mantle that would continue, as the spire was destroyed when it collapsed in a storm in 1549.
Inside the cathedral
Lincoln Cathedral may look fantastic on the outside, but it’s just as good on the inside. Upon entering, expect to be amazed by the sheer size and beauty of everything around you. Whoever the craftsmen were that built this place, the intricate artwork and designs are breath-taking.
From the immensely high ceiling to the stained glass windows, the cathedral will keep you busy for hours. I didn’t know where to start, so I wandered and took it all in, and even managed to lose Steve in the process! The nave of the cathedral was enormous and consisted of many archways and pillars; beyond this were the choir stalls as well as many shrines and tombs from ages gone by.
Remigius de Fecamp, the first Bishop of Lincoln, is interred at Lincoln Cathedral. He was laid to rest in 1092, and his tomb is still visible today in the sanctuary at the cathedral. Eleanor of Castile, the first wife of King Edward I, also has a monument dedicated to her at Lincoln Cathedral. She died in 1290 in Nottinghamshire, and Edward had her embalmed. Her viscera were buried in the cathedral and a tomb was erected, her heart was buried at the Dominican Priory in Blackfriars, London, and her body was laid to rest at Westminster Abbey.
The cathedral is also home to the Airmen’s Chapel of St Michael. This poignant place is home to three Books of Remembrance that are filled with the names of over 25,000 men who never returned to RAF bases in Lincoln during the Second World War. A truly sorrowful but meaningful place if you wish to pay your respects. There are also chapels dedicated to the souls of the British Army and the Royal Navy who never returned.
Lincoln Cathedral is also home to the Medieval and Wren Libraries. High above the cloisters, you can observe a collection of books and tomes from the 15th century – often referred to as “the most beautiful room in England.” Unfortunately, it is only open at certain times throughout the year, and we weren’t able to see this time around.
Stained Glass at Lincoln Cathedral
Lincoln Cathedral is home to over 140 stained glass windows, all unique in their own way. Rare 13th-century windows are still on display, as well as some more modern and recent work.
While there are multiple stained glass windows at Lincoln Cathedral, two of them stand out above the rest. Both are Rose Windows and are still available to see today. Across the north-south transept, the north window is known as the Dean’s Eye, and the south window the Bishop’s Eye.
Both were constructed in the early 13th century, and according to the Life of St Hugh of Lincoln, they are known as the “two eyes of the church”.
“North represents the devil, and the south the Holy Spirit, it is in these directions that the two eyes look. The bishop faces the south in order to invite in, and the dean the north in order to shun; the one takes care to be saved, the other takes care not to perish. With these Eyes the cathedral’s face is on watch for the lights of Heaven and the darkness of Oblivion.” (From the Life of St Hugh of Lincoln, 1225)
Rose windows were relatively rare in England at this point, but the Dean’s window is the oldest one in Lincoln. The geometric design predates the geometric tracery of Gothic style architecture; this can be seen from the reconstruction of the Bishop’s Eye around a century later.
There is something for everyone to see and do in Lincoln, and the castle and cathedral are highly recommended. It was well worth the drive; if you haven’t been yet, put it on your list. If you have been, let me know your thoughts in the comments below.